Doorgaan naar hoofdcontent

Diodes and (poly) fuses, week 41 (part 1)

This week has been a hacking week.
I repaired an old charger for a small fork lift, and finally fixed instability of my Raspberry-PI board.
First the battery charger, an old 30 Ampere 24 Volt charger for a small fork lift.

After switching it on, the lights would light up, some clicks would follow (detecting the battery and voltage), and then a low hum (transformer overloading) followed by a flash of the fuse exploding (on the circuitboard in the charger).

After some investigation I found out that the rectifier bridge was bad, just one diode had failed and was completely shorted out, I have no clue why this happened at that moment, maybe just a cosmic ray or a spike somewhere, nobody can tell.

The diode was a BYD57-200 (that is a press-fit 200 Volt 35 Amp version).
Going through the usual catalogs online (Farnell/RS/Reichelt/Conrad) it appeared that nobody was selling these anymore.

I ended up buying one at Brigatti in Eindhoven ( http://www.brigatti.nl/ ) it is a 30 minute drive, so I just visited the shop, they charged me 24 euro for 1 diode.

After the diode was replaced the charger was back, no more fuses exploding.
Some nice pictures of the process, the rectifier dis-assembly.













Reacties

Populaire posts van deze blog

Denon DHT T100 DESIGNED TO FAIL : bad caps (ceramic caps this time)

A friend gave me a Denon DHT-T100 to look at. Do not spend much time on it.. ok. It had a problem, it started clicking and ticking after power on, and after some time. (a so called intermittent problem) Sometimes it did not tick or click, but it was basically not usable. The clicking had a sharp click in one channel and repeated after about a second, then sound recovered and it would click and drop out again. He told me, do not spend any time on it, yeah, right. ;-) like I would give up after 15 minutes. I wanted to know what was going on with this thing, I found some schematic online and started measuring the usual things. The power supply, 24V did it drop down when a tick occurred ? Difficult to find out because sometimes the thing would play for hours without a glitch. I eventually found out the 24 V PSU, the step down SMPS on board and the LDO's were all ok, all power rails remained within spec, but it still glitched sometimes. (while power was ok) I investigat

Fixed voltage on cheap buck converter (MP1584) conversion with single 0805 resistor

Everywhere I look on the Ali and Ebays I see these step down converters based on MP1584. I bought a couple and actually they are not bad at all. The output voltage is set by the trimming-resistor in the left top corner of the picture. This works OK, but.. it is dangerous because it is rather sensitive to the touch. I decided that I wanted fixed output, so I had to figure out how this thing worked. The datasheet looks like this : R1 in the datasheet is what I call "R feedback" in my image. The value of R2 is mostly 8.2K Ohm in the boards I have seen.  So to set some common values for output voltage: change R1 to 27K for 3V3 output (actually 3.4 volt, but 27K is a standard value) or change R1 to 43K0 for 5.0 Volt output. (43 K is a standard value) A standard 0805 size resistor fits precisely, how convenient ;-). Make sure the other resistor is really 8.2K because that determines the feedback ratio. This way you can not burn up your circ

Aircon Repair on Hyundai Getz (on the hottest day of the year)

Yesterday was the hottest day of the year 2013 to date. Temperatures reached 36 degrees C. Normal value for this time of year is about 24 degrees (according to KNMI). My wife's car, a Hyundai Getz had a broken AC unit and I decided to fix it.  The AC light lit up just like normal but the clutch to the compressor did not kick in. After spending hours googling for schematics and diagrams, reading forums I found out why. The system is protected by a clever pressure switch, (conveniently located behind the glove compartment) It disables the clutch when pressure is too high or too low. After checking all things electrical, fuses, sensors, the clutch, the fans and switches I was out of options, I could not measure the pressure in the system. I visited a local car repair shop specialized in Airco systems, Rene van de Louw, st. Oedenrodeseweg 40, and he quickly noticed that I had a leak in my condenser. How? He put some pressure on the system with nitrogen and I could hear a hissing so